1 October to 4 October

John: Well we’ve had three shorter days now and two of them were dry ! Country continues to be largely the same although we passed through more woods as we got closer to Santiago.  Started raining about 3-5 kms out of Santiago and hasn’t really stopped – and when it stops it blows a gale and then it does both together … bit like Melbourne on steriods! Fine and dry promised for tomorrow which will see us on the train to Madrid.

Place we stopped in Rua was nice we were able to sit back in the shade and enjoy a glass or two while watching the pilgrims pass by. The hotel in Labacolla was very noisy … so noisy in fact that any activity involving running water tended to reverberate throughout the hotel … we thought at one stage Pete and Colly were rearranging the furniture in their room … which backed onto ours … and banged lightly on the wall … banging heavily might have had unintended consequences … to get them to stop but they didn’t, probably because, as it turned out , it was’t them.

We treated ourselves to a decent meal last night. We’ve been eating what is called the Peregrinos menu … which is (1) cheap because its included in the tour cost (2) very basic because of (1) … however the experience has differed from hotel to hotel depending I think on local preferences … but its all very samey  … in Labacolla the boys had fish (lunch time) and pork (dinner time) in what appeared to be the same all purpose Galacian sauce. However, last night we went to a restaurant recommended by our hotel and had a great meal … one of the best steaks I’ve eaten and a bottle of Spanish champagne … which is a bit like sparkling chardonnay … long on the oak.

We collected our compostella’s yesterday … and a tip … if you want one, in the column that says why did you do this … don’t tick the box which says “because it’s a nice walk in the country with my mates” … tick the box which says “spiritual enlightenment” … otherwise the kind young lady says … are you SURE … (nudge, nudge, wink, wink … god some peregrinos are thick … wonder if he needs help to tie his shoelaces) … that there were NO SPIRITUAL reasons for doing the pilgrimage … perhaps you should tick the MIDDLE column. I assume you don’t get your certificate unless there is a spiritual dimension. And, as an aside, the queuing system at the Oficina de Peregrino seems to be run by middle aged blonde American women volunteers … which seems odd … but perhaps its not … if Martin Sheen can make a movie about it then its probably pretty much main street USA … and they do think they run things.

Peter and I went to pilgrim mass this morning. Masses of people. All in Spanish (and some in German) … there are a lot of germans about. Peter said we got a sermon … I couldn’t tell but Pete says the mass is pretty much the same everywhere and the priest said a few sermonic words in the right spot. Singing was nice … the acoustics in the cathedral are excellent and the Nun who sang high soprano and lead the congregation in song was in fine voice … and no she didn’t sing anything from the Sound of Music nor for that matter did she have a guitar … he was outside playing the Sitar. A tenore did favour us with Panis Angellicus and Ave Maria but the acoustic is so clear and bright that it really cried out for an English high treble … but then that not the right religion. The cathedral looks just like its pictures … which is unfortunate … if to a smaller scale. I much prefer Leon cathedral which looks like a proper cathedral should. The inside is better than the outside but the altar is very ornate … and I do mean the baroque equivalent of the purple metallic paint job, the chrome wheels, the dash mounted tacho, and the fox tails on the aerial of the old Gemini.

Eric: Been slack with the blogging. Some highlights from the last few days:

Hotel in Rua had a beach resort feel to it that was just missing a beach. Short walk that day left us with time for rest and a proper lunch.

 

 

Fideua 

Roasted Rabbit

Puppy! Post dinner was spent playing with a black Labrador puppy that was hanging around the hotel grounds.

And who would’ve known running around after a puppy like a madman would have consequences. Left knee was a bit sore the following day and this was further aggravated by a few downhill portions. Some rest was needed for the final push to Santiago.

 

The hotel restaurant in Lavacolla wasn’t bad, but wasnt great either; recommended by a tyre company four years ago. No stars associated with it though. Forgot to take food pics.

The final day of our walk saw the four of us in fine walking form. It was as rainy and windy as it was on the first days but that did not detract us from the goal. We did however stop for a photo shoot with Collie in his ‘enlightened’ garb.

Into Santiago

We made it to Santiago in record time. Wandered the streets and basked in the rain before checking into our hotel. Dinner at San Jaime restaurant to celebrate.

 

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

Bubbly..